March 10, 2019

Yamaha R1 Buyer's Guide

How to buy a used Yamaha R1. A comprehensive guide to buying a Yamaha R1.

Yamaha R1 Buyer's Guide

So, you want to buy an R1. Get in line! So does everyone!

This buyer's guide to the Yamaha R1 is really a love letter, describing the many evolutions it has gone through since its initial introduction in 1998. Most of these models are available in the Europe, the UK, Australia and the US (the primary readers of this English-language blog).

The Yamaha R1 is one of the most iconic motorcycles of all time. It's many people's "dream" motorcycle, if you're into sportsbikes. And even if you are not, it's hard to argue with the striking design and incredible power:weight ratio that R1s embody.

While the original first generation R1 was quite raw to ride, it became progressively easier to ride over time. Generally

  • The original first-generation R1 was fast and wheelie-prone. Fun, but intense!
  • The second generation R1 was much more linear and easier to ride.
  • The third generation was easier again,

The Yamaha R1 project (as well as the R6 and the limited edition R7) was led by Kunihiko Miwa, an engineering pioneer is now one of the senior executives at Yamaha. Well deserved!

This page is the result of a bunch of research into different R1 models, trying to understand the differences and which ones to buy.

Overall: Which R1 to buy?

I'd say there are three specific models:

  • The original 1998 model: If you can find a clean model at a reasonable price, the original model is a classic and has enough performance to get you into a LOT of trouble. Get it in red/white. Buy this just to look at it, not to ride it.
  • The 2006 50th Anniversary Limited Edition model: These are the best value for money, available for around $5K USD (for one with a few miles on it). One look at the striking yellow/black graphics will have you hooked. This one has fuel injection, an under-seat exhaust (looks cool!) and well-tuned suspension. If you don't care about the yellow (or hate it), get a 2004-2005 model.
  • Anything from 2009-2014, but preferably 2012-2014: This is the fabled "crossplane crank" motor that basically means you have a four-cylinder v-twin. But I'd recommend the 2012-on years just for traction control, to keep you alive. They'll still cost a lot ($8K+) but are a lot cheaper than a new one
  • If you buy 2015 on, go for the oldest ones and try to get a good deal, because they're basically the same as the current motorcycle in 2019. Get a 2016 60th anniversary edition for the most attractive machine on the market!

Buying guides for Yamaha R1s

There isn't much different about buying an R1 to buying any other literbike. They're powerful and they've likely been wheelied, raced and beaten to a pulp if they've lasted this long. And if they haven't got many miles on them, the owner probably considers them a classic.

Get one with original things: As with any sports motorcycle, you need to find one with original fairings and an original frame (no polishing to hide chipped paint). The exception I'd make here is to exhaust and the tail.

Finding a clean, standard one is almost impossible, more than 20 years after the Yamaha R1 was born.

Acceptable modifications include:

  • Improved rear shock. Shocks tend to wear out, and old ones can be improved upon.
  • Re-valved forks. Refreshed forks, including seals, would be a must on an older model.
  • Exhaust, as long as a tune has been done. It's just a motorcycle people will want to have sing, so I can't fault people for that. When people modify exhausts they usually eat the expense, so it's worth it if it's something you'd want to do anyway.
  • Tail tidy: Most motorcycles have hideous tails these days for compliance reasons. Let the previous owner wear the cost!

Known problems with the R1s you want to make sure are taken care of

  • Gearbox. This is mostly for older models, but would apply to any R1 ridden hard. Check that it stays in gear under high revs, especially second and third gear. This is going to be quite hard with your test drive around the block, so maybe take it to a mechanic.
  • Head bearings. Check that there's no free play that usually comes from hardcore wheelies.
  • Fairings. The fairings were thin on the earlier models, much thinner than most motorcycles (or modern ones). It's OK if they're cracked, it will happen, as long as it's not from a big crash. On all R1s, make sure they're the original fairings.

The 1998-99 1st Generation Yamaha YZR-R1 4XV: The Original R1

New for 1998-99 YZF-R1:

  • The entire motorcycle
  • The 'stacked' gearbox

With 150bhp and a 177kg dry weight, the original R1 was like nothing that had gone beforehand. The darling fast sportsbike of the time was the Honda Fireblade, but as capable as that was, the R1 had it beat on specs, being lighter and more agile.

The original R1s produced a healthy 130hp (110kw) at the rear wheel, with power delivered by a 998cc 5-valve per cylinder design, via a chain drive and a six-cylinder stacked gearbox which was its secret sauce.

About the 'stacked gearbox': this was the major innovation of the original R1. By placing the gearbox above the crankshaft, the engine was lighter and more compact than any similarly-sized engine ever. It was good for performance as well as handling. The smaller engine also let the designers use a longer swing-arm to improve traction without increasing the wheelbase.

These early R1s are bona fide modern classics, with the red and white liveried bikes in particular proving very collectable by the right buyers.

You could also get one in blue, but why?

Unfortunately, it's very hard to find a 1998-1999 first generation Yamaha R1, and when they're listed they're either thrashed or priced too high. Motorcycle buyers tend to buy them rather than just store them and look at them, so the original R1 is more a classic in sellers' minds than in buyers'. Yes, it's an awesome motorcycle, but one you want to ride. Sellers think you should probably just keep it in a showroom, and the over-inflated prices for them reflect this.

Besides this, reputation has it that the original first-generation R1 was quite hard to ride. With a short wheelbase and power delivery not as refined as later models, it's easy to wheelie and generally quite wild. Sorry, did I just talk you into getting one? Good luck finding one. I doubt you'd regret it!

2000-2001 2nd Generation Yamaha R1 (5JJ): The Smoothest Carbureted R1

The 2000 Yamaha YZF R1. Graphics aren't as nice!

Changes for the 2000-2001 Yamaha R1:

  • Revised graphics, not as good
  • Motor/carb tune for a linear power delivery. So smooth!
  • Revised frame castings to make the chassis stiffer
  • Revised weight distribution, for more front bias
  • Titanium silencers (saving 2kg)
  • Brighter headlights

For the second generation Yamaha R1, Yamaha tuned the motor to give it a smooth, flat torque delivery, with a corresponding linear 45 degree power curve.

It tamed down the wild, animal nature of the original R1.

They also changed the styling slightly (a definite downgrade from the red seat of the original), and gave it bigger, wider headlights. The first generation headlights were not bright enough.

2002-2003 3rd generation Yamaha R1 (5PW): The First Fuel-Injected R1

The 2002-3 Yamaha R1 in Red

Changes for the 2002-2003 Yamaha R1:

  • Fuel injection, using a hybrid 'suction piston' system which gave the analogue response of a carburetor, with the precision of EFI
  • New styling, minimalist bodywork. Quit messing with perfection, Yamaha!
  • Silver colour option
  • Updated rear suspension and larger diameter front forks

This was the first real update for the Yamaha R1. The aim was to make it more refined, but that just made the competition's bonkers offerings more attractive.

2004-2005 4th Generation Yamaha R1 (5VY): The First R1 with a 1:1 Power:Weight ratio

Personally, I prefer blue in models starting with 2004.

This was a really visually stunning version of the R1 (wait, you could say that about any of them).

New for the 2004 Yamaha R1:

  • Moar power! 172 hp, a more than 20hp increase!
  • Adjusted geometry, reducing tendency to wheelie
  • Under-seat exhausts, which look the business
  • Radial-mounted disk brakes

OK, so that magical 1:1 power:weight ratio only works if you're partly imperial (172hp), partly metric (172kg). Shut up. It's still awesome.

They increased the horsepower in two ways.

  • Engine: They reduced stroke to enable higher RPM, and thus power output. Peak power is now higher, around 2000 RPM more than previous R1 models.
  • Ram air intake: The R1 in 2004 introduced an intake to force air into the engine. Horsepower actually increases with speed, for a peak of 180hp using the scoop. 172hp is just what they measured on the dyno.

Bloggers all around thought the 2004 R1 was a huge improvement on predecessors, which they said was amazing considering how much they loved the predecessors.

Downsides of the 2004 R1:

  • Tall gearing: this made it practical, but much more civilized than the competition.

2006: 4th Generation Yamaha YZF-R1, still, but 50th anniversary Limited Edition... and also the SP

The 2006 Limited Edition yellow and black Yamaha R1. Stunner! Surpassed only by the 2016 LE.

The main change to the 2006 was the introduction of the Limited Anniversary Edition, which meant awesome yellow paint.

I kid. 2006 was also the year they brought in the first racing edition, which was amazing. But the yellow and black limited edition R1 does look awesome.

This model also had

  • 20mm longer swingarm, to move weight forward
  • Gold fork legs (did you notice?)
  • Intake adjustments, adding 3hp
  • Slipper clutch
  • An integrated lap timer

The YZF-R1SP: This was a special model of the R1 made in 2006 built for superstock racing. It had the same engine, but also had

  • Custom Ohlins suspension, developed by the same team as the M1 MotoGP bike
  • Custom forged aluminium Marchesini wheels
  • A slipper clutch
  • Matt black paint with gold wheels
The 2006 YZF-R1SP. Definitely a collector's item.

Only 500 of these were made in the US, and 500 for Europe. A few more went to other places, like Australia.

2007-2008 5th Generation Yamaha R1 (4C8): Four valves again, and electronics galore

There were some pretty significant updates in the 2007 Yamaha R1. These included:

  • Only four valves per cylinder: a first for a while! They had had five valves per cylinder from the beginning.
  • Fly-by-wire throttle (which came on the R6 in 2006)
  • Variable length intake funnels, designed to improve performance as revs increased
  • Electronically controlled variable valve timing
  • Slipper clutch, for improved speed in downshifting
  • New aluminium swing-arm
  • Six piston front brakes, up from four, though reducing disc size by 10mm
  • Increased dry weight, up to 178kg (390lb), but with maintained 178hp (or 186 hp with ram air at speed)
  • New bodywork, exposing more of the engine

2009-2011 6th Generation Yamaha R1 (14B): The Crossplane Crank engine

This was one of the most significant updates to the Yamaha R1.

The "crossplane crank" motor, also known as "bing bang", fired its pistons in pairs, much like a v-twin. That's what it sounded like, and that's what it felt like to ride. Peak power (with ram air) dropped to 179hp.

It sounds amazing. Look it up on YouTube.

Main changes for the 2009 R1

  • Crossplane Crank/Big Bang motor
  • Bulbous, more aggressive design
  • New paint - red frame on the white motorcycles

2012-2014 6th Gen mk 2 Yamaha R1 (14BE): Hello, electronics

The Pearl white/rapid red 2012 Yamaha R1 special edition.

The 2012 Yamaha R1 was mostly the same as the 2009-2011 (see, the code barely changed, from 14B to 14BE), but added electronics to compete with what BMW was offering with the S1000RR.

They added:

  • The pearl white livery for the 50th anniversary of Yamaha's racing
  • Seven-level traction control
  • Three levels of throttle response

All that is to make the insane levels of power more easy to use.

2015-Present 7th Generation YZF-R1 and YZF-R1M (2CR):  200hp! Which you don't need but really want

The 2015 R1 added a bunch of rider aids to tame the horsepower into a package that probably won't kill you as easily with its 200hp. And yes, it's still 1:1 in power:weight, with 443 pounds of weight (200kg exactly).

They added a 6-axis Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) that constantly senses chassis motion in 3D, creating controllability over traction, slides, front wheel lift, braking and launches.

They also added

  • Revised engine, with crazy-sounding things like lighter titanium rods, larger-diameter valves and revised cam timing. The redline is up to 14,500 from 13,750.
  • Sophisticated electronics read-out, telling you things like front brake pressure, fore/aft g-force
  • ABS and Unified Braking
  • Ride modes, e.g. "street" or "race". (But what about street racing? C'mon)
  • Lap timer
  • Slightly shorter wheelbase (with the same swing-arm:chassis length ratio as it's predecessor)
  • A quick shifter
  • New KYB inverted fully adjustable front forks
  • Cast magnesium wheels

If you're freaked out by all the electronics, take these comforting words from Cycle World:

If we sound impressed with the engine, we are. But the inline-four’s ace in the hole is Yamaha’s electronics package. Of all the systems we’ve sampled from BMW, Ducati, Aprilia, Kawasaki, and even KTM on its 1290 Super Adventure and Super Duke R, the R1’s suite is the most transparent in operation. Using excellent coding and multiple means to control power output, including fuel, throttle-butterfly angle, and ignition retard, Yamaha has made interventions incredibly hard to detect and therefore amazingly smooth and nonintrusive. As a matter of fact, for intervention to become noticeable on a grippy mountain road, we had to toggle TC to a very conservative setting, while the SCS (slide control) was all but impossible to feel at a street pace. Wheelie control provides the same sensation, until you shut it off completely, at which point you realize how much it is doing to tame wheelies.

2015 YZF-R1M: Limited run homologation special

From 2015, Yamaha started releasing homologation models known by 'M' after the R1 name.

The M models are special, only a thousand of which are made each year.

In 2015 the M model was distinct for including

  • Ohlins electronic suspension (even better than the KYB on the regular R1), including manual and automatic modes
  • Yamaha's Communication Control Unit, to communicate with the bike through tablet or smart phone app and upload your settings for the various rider aids.
  • Yamaha's Y-TRAC data-logging program, for analyzing things like throttle opening, speed, lean angle, brake pressure, engine rpm, and more, letting you overlay multiple laps or compare with your buddy.
  • Carbon fibre to shed weight

2016: 60th anniversary edition Yamaha R1

The 2016 model was part of the 2CR range, but with special paint and a few special specs. The yellow/black colour scheme is back! They somehow managed to make this one look even better than the 2006 50th anniversary R1.

The 2016 limited edition 60th anniversary yellow and black R1. Holy crap how'd they eclipse the 2006 design?

New for 2016 model

  • Standard Akrapovic muffler
  • 199kg
  • Its central nervous system is a 6-axis Inertial Measurement Unit that constantly senses chassis motion in 3D, creating controllability over traction, slides, front wheel lift, braking and launches. Yamaha R1. We R1.